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Posted on Apr 01, 2010

FL 4 code Hot surface igniter problem on Jandy Lite 2

I have two Jandy Lite 2 LP heaters. One was on pool the other on spa. During the winter the heater on the spa froze so I swapped heaters. When I tried to start the heater, I got code FL 4 (Hot surface igniter problem). Im wondering if this is a air in the gas line problem or a part problem. If it is a part problem, I have the frozen damaged unit I can rob the part from. I need to know what part it is, where it is located and procedure for changing it. Thank you very much for your time and assistance.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 125 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 26, 2009

SOURCE: Jandy Aqualink RS4 controller won't turn lights on/off

AquaLink Trouble shooting guide

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Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 09, 2009

SOURCE: I have Jandy RS4 system with 4-button poolside

Pull the cover off the control panel. You will probably find a button which would be accessible from outside the panel with a paper clip or pencil but is unlabeled. On the board itself by the button, in small letters it should say "reset". Push the button and see what happens.

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2010

SOURCE: I have a Jandy Laars LX Pool/Spa Heater...when I

If the unit is lighting then shutting off then repeating it isn't rectifying, means not sensing the flame. May have a bad flame sensor or ignition control. I'm guessing your AGS is indicated on the GUI also.

russlakeside

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 25, 2010

SOURCE: FL 4 error, Jandy Lite 2 pool heater

I believe you may have a draft restriction and this may stop the start up diagnostics. The draft detection switch is sometimes restricted or weak. Common problem. Tap the gas valve to see if the winter has caused the valve to seat heavily and stick.

Ryan Ross

  • 19 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 20, 2010

SOURCE: pool and spa heater will not turn on, low pressure on display

1) check the fuse on the transformer. You will get "low pressure" if the fuse is blown.
1a) remove front panel with flat head screw driver turning both big screws 1/4 turn clockwise
1b) look up under the 1 remaining front piece for 2 screws (one on each side). remove them and the 1 small panel slides down
1c) transform is directly in the center of this compartment
1d) red wire on transform has a black fuse case - twist open and check fuse (with an ohm meter it should read a dead short if it is working).
1e) if not working - replace with standard 250v 2a bus fuse.
2) it really is low pressure
2a) backwash pool or at least make sure pressure in filter take is not too high (high filter tank pressure == low water pressure in heater)
2b) if you have a bypass valve make sure it is not in bypass mode so most all pressure from the pump is going tothe heater
2c) right next to the transformer is the pressure switch. It has a small copper tube attached to the back and 2 wires in the front. Put an ohm meter across the two leads on this device. With the filter off it should be open, with the filter on it should be closed (short). If not either the copper tubing is clogged, the switch is faulty, or there is not enough water going through the heater. The amount of water that goes into the heater is adjustable and the water pressure switch is also adjustable. The owners manual explains how to adjust both but neither should need adjustment unless you have a special configuration (explained in the manual).

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